From Melas to Fleas

Annu Suresh
5 min readJan 12, 2023

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A glimpse from a previous Sivarathri utsav shot by my dear friend, Nihan. He was kind enough to let me use this.

During my childhood, one of the major festivals apart from Onam and Christmas that I looked forward to, was the ‘Shivarathri’ Utsav happening once a year around March. Shivarathri is a festival to honour Lord Shiva. We grew up in Alwaye, a small town in Ernakulam district, in a house closer to the banks of the Periyar river. On the bank also situates an ancient Mahadeva temple, where according to the folklore, the Shiva idol was installed by sage Parasurama (also according to Wikipedia). The temple hosts many devotees who come to worship the deity, and during the Shivarathri Utsav, it’s almost 100x of the usual visitors. I remember how tightly Amma holds my hands in the crowd, while I exasperatedly await the Pooja to be over to go straight to the Mela.

Now, going back to where I started — a festival which as a child I longed to be at. Well, it was not because waiting in the hours-long queue was exciting, or getting punched and kicked in the crowd is fun. It was definitely for the Mela that comes with the festival, where the ground will be lit with tube lights (no, we are not yet there to know what string lights mean), makeshift stalls put up in a row, giant wheels and games which we were ready to wait in long queues for our turn to come, and the mulaku bhajis — chilli pepper coated in a generous amount of gram flour batter and fried in oil (can’t keep a count of how many times it would have been reused!).

The festival usually runs for about 21 days, of which we make sure to go visit it at least thrice. It’s a walkable distance from home, but we being kids, my parents believed supervision without adults is unsafe. We usually go as a big group, with our neighbours. What I had always loved buying apart from the short eats, balloons, and coloured hairbands, is kitchen set made of clay -the tiny cute kadai, spoons and more which we save for the summer vacation starting in about a month from then. Oh! How can I forget the kudukka! The piggy bank is made of clay, where I save the coins that Pappa and Amma give me every day. Almost after a year, when it’s full, breaking the kudukka is a celebration. The coins will be segregated into the denomination of 25 paise (I’m speaking about a period 15–16 years ago when it existed), 50 paise, Re.1, Rs.2 and Rs.5.

Why are these melas so loved, you ask me? Because it’s a much-anticipated outing, in a fully lit maidan, with goodies in small shops that one can buy, and meeting so many people you know and doesn’t! The child in me had my own reasons to love it.

Fast forward to 2015, one day I was randomly walking on the Mumbai roads. It was Bandra, and something suddenly struck my eyes, that pulled me towards checking that out. I saw a board ‘Lil Flea’ and inside, a very beautifully decorated ground in Boho style, stalls with brands that were very new to me then, live music, and people walking around with joy! The vibe was so good that it instantly made me very happy. I realised that the environment plays a very big role in the way you feel your emotions. Okay, let me not divert and will save this for my next blog.

So it was when I saw ‘Lil Flea’ that I got introduced to the concept of Flea markets. It took me a few years to know that flea markets are a common affair in western countries. It’s a tourist attraction for many and sometimes seasonal too. I associated Flea markets as sophisticated Melas. It took me a few more years to understand the dynamics of Flea Markets, how it contributes to urban regeneration and cultural change, in a specific part of society.

There’s a lot of economic activity that happens during the time of Flea. Moreover, they are found to be one of the ways of improving metropolitan tourism, and it also promotes diversity. There are several studies analysing the cultural change brought by Flea markets, citing some of the scenarios at the largest flea markets like the one in Otara, New Zealand and Paris.

A few months ago, as part of Tocco’s marketing efforts (again, saving the story of Tocco for another blog), we had a chance to be part of the flea market as an exhibitor. Now, this was different. Being an exhibitor than an audience. Had too many learnings that we thought we can reflect in the next flea market we would participate in. Three flea markets down as an exhibitor, the learnings keep improving. Even the tiniest detail can make a change in the way the flea for you will turn out to be. Here are a few insights:

  • The location of the stall you choose matters! You must anticipate how the people would be taking their turn, which are the brands opposite or next to you that affect traction to your stall and more.
  • Be very creative! Everybody likes creativity, and it naturally draws attention.
  • More than the sales, it’s a great chance for you to interact with the (potential) customers, and speak about your vision. People are interested in the why of your journey. And this is also an opportunity for instant feedback. Interact as much as possible.
  • It can get very exhausting. Because you need to be on full energy throughout to receive the people. But the customer behaviour teaches you a lot.
  • Most importantly, the connections you make, the people you meet and the sales you made during those days of the flea will reap you benefits later, when you are least expecting them! (You will have many aha moments!)

When I write this, another tab on my browser opens to the preparation for the next flea we are participating in — The Lil Flea! Back then, while stepping into the Lil Flea and being drawn by the vibe, I never thought I would step into it as an exhibitor contributing to that vibe.

The 12-year-old joyfully held her Amma’s hands to go to the Mela, the 21-year-old delightedly swallowed the vibe at the Flea, and now joyously contributing to the diversity it brings in.

From a child to an adult, from tube lights to string slights, from Melas to Fleas — being part of a cultural change.

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